Wine Spectator May 2013

11 Lush, Savory Whites
New reviews of 2011 Grüner Veltliners from Austria

Kim Marcus
Posted: May 3, 2013

Tasting Highlights bring the best wines from our editors’ most recent tastings to members.

With Grüner Veltliner, Austria makes a definitive statement on the world stage. The best of these medium- to full-bodied whites provide a savory mix of well-spiced white fruit flavors. Rich and viscous, they can also feature notes of white pepper, mineral and cream.

2011, the most recent vintage from this Alpine nation, delivered lush-tasting Grüners that provide a good introduction to this exciting varietal. The 2011 Grüners’ flavors are enticing and young, but the best versions hold out the potential to age for a decade or longer.

FORSTREITER Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kremstal Grande Reserve 2011

Score: 91 | $20

Plush and exuberantly creamy, this is filled with plenty of spicy notes that drape over the rich flavors of peach cobbler, ripe melon and candied ginger. Complex and alluring, with a firm frame and a rich finish that features a core of white plum and cherry. Drink now through 2022. 1,400 cases made. —K.M.

FORSTREITER Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kremstal Kremser Kogl 2011

Score: 90 | $14

Delicate, with interesting notes of dried herb that join the fresh-cut apple and green peach flavors in this snappy style. The well-sculpted finish of mineral and white pepper lingers with hints of orange peel. Drink now through 2019. 6,000 cases made. —K.M.

FORSTREITER Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Niederösterreich Grooner 2011

Score: 87 | $13

Offers enticing aromas of lilac and freesia, with a crisp richness to the apple pie and peach cobbler flavors. The broad and creamy finish features spicy notes. Drink now through 2016. 2,000 cases imported. —K.M.